Mon Sep 11
Pix
SF Bay Area
Yosemite
Fresno Dome
Courtwright
Joshua Tree
rec.climers
Tools
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Karl Lew
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2-for-1
Our group of eight splits up with individual guides. Christian and Karl
wander off to climb with Lawrence. The theme for the day is "exposure".
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The day begins with a warm-up on an easy two-pitch climb.
Lawrence introduces twin rope technique, leading
on two 8.6mm ropes. Christian and Karl follow simultaneously, separated
from each other by a short but safe distance. Lawrence belays
both using a Gi-Gi.
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On the second pitch, Lawrence demonstrates "runout".
Do you see a clip in between? We don't.
He's in for a looooooong fall with road rash. Now we
understand the Screamer right off the belay. He later
tells us that the abundance of chickenheads is easily
protected as needed. We guess Lawrence doesn't need.
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From the top, Christian and Karl simulrap down to Lawrence.
Weights are compared and the "euro death knot" is viewed
with a frown.
Back on the ground, our team hems and haws then heads over
to Buzzard Book, a five pitch sustained 5.8. The binoculars
come out and Lawrence scopes out the "LT variation" (guess
who LT is). The first pitch
is a challenge and we wisely nod at each other after deciding
the first ascenscionists were sandbagging.
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A sea of chickenheads greets us at the top of the first pitch.
Tunnels, mushrooms, a crazy quiltwork of fantastic shapes
sculpted out of granite.
The day is warm. The climbers carry on...
more...
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