| Karl's Climbing Grab Bag
Home |
Normal |
Heavy |
Racking
Rappel Backup (Normal)When rappelling, I frequently use a Bachman knot (B) as a backup for my Trango Jaws rappel/belay device, especially if I'm planning stops for photos, etc. I also use this setup to climb self-belayed on short stretches--the Bachman slides easily up/down when held by the carabiner, and locks when the cord is weighted. One consideration of using a Bachman is that pressure on the biner will unlock the knot, even if the knot is weighted. This is good if I want to continue rappelling after a stop; it is bad if I'm falling. For this and other reasons, I prefer to extend the Bachman away from my body. To do so, I use 7' of 6mm Perlon tied into a loop with a double fisherman's knot.NOTES: The inset shows how to start a Bachman--I just add more loops as required. For single rope rappel, I rig the Trango Jaws belay device with the V-notch on the brake hand side (J), for double rope rappel, I use the other side of the Jaws because of the greater friction created by two ropes. Lastly, I secure the cord to my belay loop (L) with a self-locking biner. Posted...
Scott: Nothing what? Karl: What nothing? Avajane: Sorry guys...I use "Nothing" - the same backup you've always used, Scott. DISCLAIMER: Climbing is inherently dangerous. The statements presented here are personal opinion only and are not endorsements or recommendations of any kind. |
   
|